Where to Eat in Florence

This afternoon we said goodbye to Florence. Both Bo and I agree that this was exactly the trip that we needed and wanted. It was an incredible 5 year anniversary trip filled with culture, delicious food, new wines, friendly locals, an indulgent hotel, and lots of wonderful memories. We cashed in six years worth of Starwood points in exchange for three nights at the St. Regis Florence, a decision we’d make again in a heartbeat. The service was a level we haven’t experienced since our honeymoon and the king size bed and complimentary upgrade to a river view with soaking tub was bliss, especially as our flat in Geneva only has a simple shower.

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There are so many incredible restaurants in Florence, especially considering its size. There was no way we could try all of the restaurants, even the ones which friends and family recommended. The list of restaurants below are the ones that we’d recommend to our friends, family and you readers. There were other spots that we either tried and didn’t enjoy or paled in comparison to these other spots.

We learned first hand that authentic Italian food is truly delicious not because of it’s complexities but instead its simplicity.

As always, if you have any questions, just drop me a tweet or email! Tomorrow we’ll try to remember what it’s like to eat more green vegetables than pasta. Until then, I’m going to sip a glass of Chianti we brought back from this weekend’s adventure and relax.

IMG_3547Breakfast

Many Italians barely eat breakfast, unless you consider multiple espressos and possibly a cigarette a meal. Most coffee shops offer a few pieces of fruit or an array of pastries, ranging from donuts, sweet brioche to ham and cheese croissants.. They’ll be the first to admit it isn’t their specialty, though and steer you towards a deliciously, strong cup of caffeine. For this reason, none of our breakfasts were especially memorable, except yesterdays at Pugi. Located just a steps away from the Duomo, this is the perfect spot to grab breakfast before starting your day. The bakery often has lines out the door but if you come early you can snag one of their sweet brioche or a slice of one of their fruit breads and cakes, which they insist are just as delicious for breakfast. They were sampling the fig cake which almost made me swap my brioche but in the end the sweet brioche won.  They are also known for their by the slice pizzas and focaccia bread, prepared Florentine style, salt free. Note that they don’t serve coffee but just two doors down there is a small shop which serves up Illy coffee.

IMG_3599Lunch

Three different friends recommended we dine at ‘ino for lunch the day we tour the Uffizi. Located right around the corner from Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi Gallery, this small shop is known for their fresh, local ingredients and unique flavor combinations on their extensive sandwich and panini menu. Completely in Italian, the menu includes more than 50 different combinations ranging from meat heavy, truffle inclusive and even vegan. We shared two paninis – prosciutto with truffle tapenade and and the caprese. Served with two glasses of red wine, the total came to 24 euros. Not bad when you consider that these sandwiches are HUGE, freshly prepared, top ingredients and filled with locals.

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Dinner

Over the course of three nights we dined at four different spots. One of them was a total flop which I will not waste energy discussing. Two of them (Trattoria dei 13 Gobbi and Trattoria Gargani) and were memorable dinners which we’d happily enjoy again and the fourth, was okay but a bit overhyped. La Giostra was good and everything people said it would be but by the end of the dining experience, we were more than ready to leave. The staff was almost too friendly, coming off as trying too hard. The restaurant was packed, but with almost entirely American tourists. Don’t get me wrong, I love my home country but when traveling, I prefer to dine among the locals or at least a mix of tourists. The music they played was incredibly random and included more than 30 minutes of just a bit too loud Red Hot Chili peppers. That being said, the food was delicious and reliable.

Luckily, our hotel pointed us in the direction of two separate restaurants which delivered memorable dinner experiences. It is rare for us to go to a restaurant and rave about every single dish. Both of these restaurants served flawless meals that weren’t stuffy but were flavorful, reasonably priced and like anything we’ve had before. The steak Florentine at Trattoria dei 13 Gobbi was Bo’s favorite dish of the weekend while the pasta magnifico or citrus pasta was mind blowing because it incorporated citrus flavors in a cream sauce, something we’d never considered! Their homemade cheesecake, a last minute splurge, was also one of the best decisions all weekend!

IMG_3536IMG_3602Gelato

My readers LOVE their gelato! I received no less than 20 recommendations for Florence gelato shops, luckily more than 80% of them were for the same two places: Vivoli and Gelaterie La Carraia. Bo and I tried one right after our epic bike ride and the other yesterday when ducking out of the rain. Maybe it was the sweet taste of success after biking over 35 miles, but both Bo and I preferred La Carraia’s flavors, consistency and staff. Both places small size cost 2 euros but the serving  was a bit more generous and their cookies flavor was hands down the best gelato ever! A mix of nuts, chocolate, biscuit (aka cookies) with a vanilla base left me wishing I’d chosen it instead of Bo. But, their pistachio didn’t disappoint either. Vivoli wasn’t bad it just wasn’t La Carraia. There was a longer line, the service wasn’t friendly and their pistachio wasn’t as rich in flavor as La Carraia.

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Silent Saturday – We Love Florence

We just returned to our hotel room for a quick break before dinner. After spending ten hours exploring Florence, our feet and legs are sore and exhausted but it was the perfect “Florence highlights” day! IMG_9090 IMG_9091IMG_3580IMG_3588IMG_9101 IMG_9119IMG_9125 IMG_9133 IMG_9134 IMG_3602 IMG_3610 IMG_3624 IMG_3629 IMG_3650

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An Amazing First 12 Hours in Florence

Bo and I arrived in Florence yesterday afternoon following a quick, one hour flight from Geneva! I am so glad we took everyone’s recommendations and chose Florence as our five year wedding anniversary destination! The city is beautiful, the people are friendly, compared to Geneva everything is reasonably priced, the service is fabulous and the depth of culture is almost limitless!

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After settling in our hotel we headed across the river to the Pitti Palace or Palazzo Pitti, a large Renaissance palace which is best known for being the Medici family residence. It was the official residence of the Florence rulers until 1919, when the Savoys gave it to the state. Visitors can spend all day exploring the vast museums and grounds, including the spectacular Boboli Gardens. As we only had two hours to explore, we prioritized the Royal Apartments and the Palatine Gallery. In case you visit in the future, please note that the ticket process is VERY confusing but you can do research in advance online. There are 3 levels of tickets, the 3rd being the most inclusive and unbeknownst to us at the time, it is valid for 3 days!

IMG_3409[1]IMG_8928IMG_8924 IMG_3430 IMG_3427 IMG_3422 IMG_3417We followed everyone’s recommendations and enjoyed a glass of champagne at the Westin Excelsior rooftop bar, Se-Sto, while watching the sunset in the distance.

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We spent the next hour reflecting on our five years of marriage and eleven years together, reminiscing over our favorite memories. 

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Our next and final stop of the day was a delicious, casual dinner at Trattoria 13 Gobbi. We asked our hotel to make us reservations at a relaxed, casual Italian restaurant with very good food. The last thing we wanted was fancy or stuffy. Trattoria 13 Gobbi, located just a few blocks from our hotel, met these requirements perfectly! The restaurant has a cozy, intimate atmosphere and specializes in local Tuscan cuisine. We enjoyed steak Florentine and a delicious rigatoni pasta served in a melted mozzarella and tomato sauce, unlike anything we’ve tasted before.  IMG_8938 IMG_8940 IMG_8942 IMG_8945IMG_8948

Based on how wonderful our first twelve hours in Florence were yesterday, I can only imagine what the rest of the weekend will hold! We’re off to enjoy a bike ride through Chianti today, including stops at local vineyards, a castle and an olive oil factory with I Bike Italy!

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