A Weekend in Zermatt

Over 9 months ago, four of our closest friends, who make up our “Supper Club” group decided to book a week trip to Switzerland. It started as a whim when we’d all enjoyed one too many glasses of wine during one of our infamous supper club cooking evenings on a Saturday night. Elizabeth pointed out that the only time off from her MBA program was Spring Break, which would be a perfect time to visit us in Europe. Within a few days the group agreed that it was a plan and marked the dates on our calendar.

When we finally got our act together and started planning trip details, one item rose to the top of the list – skiing. Where better to take our friends skiing for a weekend than Zermatt. Home of the Matterhorn and skiing 365 days a year, we were excited to experience a new city and the German side of Swiss culture.

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Our 48 hours in Zermatt were perfect. The days were filled blue sky, sunshine and lots of time on the slopes while the evenings were filled with rich, delicious Swiss food and exhaustion induced sleep.

We stayed in a small studio just a 5 minute walk from the lift which Brad found on AirBnB. The studio housed the 6 of us perfectly and featured a larger than expected bathroom, a small kitchenette, wireless, a ski storage area and all the linens and kitchen tools we needed for our two night stay. In keeping with Swiss culture and stereotypes, it was also spotless! We would highly recommend this Zermatt AirBnB for anyone looking for simple and reasonably priced accommodations.

IMG_4860IMG_6852IMG_6854We spent three full days skiing the area which is the largest ski area we’ve ever experienced! There are over 225 miles of pistes (trails) in Zermatt that cross through Switzerland and Italy! The mountain was perfect for our group as more than 60% of the trails are red slopes which are the equivalent of blues and blacks in the United States. I was able to ski with the guys the entire trip keeping up on the red routes though going slower as I made my way down the long, steep runs slowly but surely – huge headway since December when I started skiing over here!

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What intially struck us about Zermatt was the shear size of the mountain and area as we were on a gondola at one point for 30 minutes before we started skiing. However, at the same time, we were able to ski all the way down from the top of Matterhorn Glacier Paradise (12,740 feet)! In addition, the area felt very natural, untouched and filled with glaciers, huge mountains, and exposed boulders.

On our last day we stopped at a fun, unique area called Iglu-Dorf or the igloo village. Igloos fill the small area along with fur laden tables and chairs allowing skiers a place to stop and enjoy fun music, mulled wine and a break in between runs.

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We enjoyed dinner and drinks at four different spots in Zermatt, each very different but so much fun!

Our first stop was Elsie Bar, a tiny bar across from the church in Zermatt and features everything from local beers to champagne and caviar. We enjoyed a glass of champagne and 6 oysters before heading to dinner.

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Our first dinner spot in Zermatt was not recommended by one but three different friends. That is the sign of a great restaurant! Every bit of Restaurant Julen was perfect from their warm atmosphere and comfortable booths to the friendly staff and delicious Swiss German cuisine. Our entire table ordered a lamb dish as the restaurant is known for their lamb which they raise right outside town.

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The next night we started with drinks at Papperla Pub while enjoying their live band and a lively apres ski crowd. Their aperol spritz was refreshing after a long day on the slopes and cooled us down after two straight hours of dancing to the cover band. The band even played our request of Sweet Home Alabama which almost caused us to lose our voices from singing, ahem shouting the lyrics.

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Finally we ended our food tour of Zermatt with a fondue dinner at Restaurant Pinte in the Pollux Hotel.

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Our eyes were bigger than our stomach as fondue, rosti and raclette were enough to leave us with cheese induced night sweats but man was it delicious. I think I need a long sleeve shirt that says “I ski for cheese” because that is the way we all felt by the end of the weekend.

What an incredible weekend but I am happy to spend the rest of today recovering on the couch with Bo!

If you could request one song from a cover band what would it be? Mine is always Dixie Land Delight or Sweet Home Alabama

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Fondue & Sledging: A New Swiss Experience

This weekend in Verbier was very different than the previous two weekends this season. Three couples came together with one goal – celebrate Nora’s birthday by enjoying a weekend filled with her favorite things: skiing, a late lunch on the mountain, fondue, sledding and lots of wine!189 It was so nice to spend quality time with Nora, Mike, Nico and Marie as we haven’t had the chance to spend time with them outside group settings.143While overcoming a great deal of my fears on the slopes and enjoying a few hours of skiing with friends was a lot of fun, the highlight of the weekend was definitely last night’s adventure: fondue & sledging. 200 When Nora suggested an evening of fondue and sledging we of course agreed as it’s the birthday girl’s choice and Bo had never eaten Swiss fondue. But, we didn’t know the details of the adventure until 8pm last night. Our group was told to grab one of the stacked sledges (sleds in the US) and be ready at 8pm, fresh from naps and showers, dressed in warm boots and clothing. I am so thankful that my in-laws gave me a pair of Sorel boots for my birthday! I stayed nice and warm all last night!

We took the Verbier bus 15 minutes from their flat, towards Carrefour. Many other people had the same idea as by the time we reached our stop the bus filled with people of all ages with one thing in common – a sled in their hands.210From the bus stop our evening consisted of a 45 minute hike up a hill, through the woods along a trail overlooking the villages below, a fondue dinner and then a sledging adventure back down the mountain.

The hike through the woods in fresh powder was definitely a challenge on already exhausted legs. We went between talking and laughing on the trail to waking a few minutes in silence to enjoy the pristine forest. 198Our eyes quickly became adjusted to the darkness and Bo and I were in awe of the stars, snow capped trees and views. I wish I could capture the views for you but my iPhone couldn’t do it justice.

Forty five minutes later our group arrived at Restaurant La Marmotte.201

Complete with a large fireplace and wood burning stoves, our dinner was the epitome of a Swiss fondue evening! Needless to say, after the hike, we were quite exhausted but also quite cold.  That was quickly remedied as we were immediately welcomed with toasty cups of vin chaud (hot wine) and a delicious assiette de viandes froides et fromages (dried meat and cheese plate). 

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No one needed to look at the menu as our hosts Mike and Nora ordered for the whole table (fondue obviously with plenty of white wine).  Since it was Bo’s first time having fondue, the experienced fondue folks joked that they almost encouraged him to order beer rather than wine. Evidently the acid in the white wine helps with the digestion of the cheese and if you ever drink beer with fondue, everything you eat clumps together in your stomach causing quite a bit of discomfort.204205206We laughed and joked for over two hours and somehow miraculously managed to finish both pots.  It was then time for the sledging down the longest path in Western Switzerland!  NOW, let me tell you…if you want an adventure, sit down on a plastic sledge heading down the mountain for 30 minutes along a 10 ft wide path in the dark with a cliff on one edge after consuming 6 bottles of wine and two pots of cheese between 8 people – for us, it was the ride of a lifetime though its evidently normal course in the Swiss Alps. Yes mom and dad I know this wasn’t the best decision but we survived, had a blast and don’t regret it! 211

The sledges that are used in Switzerland are unlike any American sled that we have ever seen.  The sleds that we used to buy at corner bodegas in New York after a big snow were simple plastic shells.  These were also made out of plastic but they had proper seats and actual controls.  We steered right and left down the mountain as the path twisted and turned through the woods back through Verbier. We all survived the adventure and ended right at the base of the W Hotel in Verbier, laughing and freezing from the snow in our hair on bottoms.

The world incredible can’t begin to describe this four hour experience and we look forward to sharing it with friends and family who come visit us during the winter!

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Silent Saturday: Ski Edition

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